Paul on the road : from Astorga

by Paulo Coelho on May 1, 2009

The road is proving to much harder than I ever imagined, but I don’t blame the road for this because I am making the road difficult for myself perhaps… At home in Austria, I run almost daily, I go often into the mountains both in winter and summer, and consider myself very fit for my age. The road is showing me something else though, perhaps trying to tell me that I have to slow down, in everyday life and just respect and accept the fact that the body cannot always keep pace with the mind…?

Since Boadilla, the days hav been long and hard, with high winds blowing directly into my face the whole time. As I mentioned before from Condes, I set off with a small group of friends via Sahagun on the Via Triaina to Terredillos, where we found a cold and dreary Alberge. I cleaned and lit the stove as Bastian & Tara prepared the evening meal, and we enjoyed pleasant conversation about the day gone past. We had expected Rodrigo & Nuria t arrive with the rice ;-) but due to Rodrigos visit to a Vineyard some 15 kms prior, and not paying attention to the time, it soon became dark. Nuria (friend of David from Villamayor de Monjardin) picked up the GPS coordinates on her i-Phone and saw that as the crow flies, they were very near to us, but thre was no road, so they tried to walk cross country as the sun was going down rapidly. With scratches and sprains they finally arrived… without the rice ;)… at about 21:00 pm, tired and cold, so they were glad of the warm fire that was still burning. We all laughed at the experience, bt Rodrigo said it was the last time he was going to follow me on the less trodden path ;)

The day that followed was hard, with headwinds and in contradicton to recent weather, it felt really cold. We headed out on the Via Triaina only to find a sign fter about 4 kms forbidding Periginos from using the path. So we took the detour back on to the very boring main road. Finally arrivig at Reliegos, we headed for the bar for a coffee and bite to eat. Maria & Ariana walked in and as the juke box played the Blue Danube, they began to dance the beautiful but difficult left waltz ;), Stefan and Mark also trundled in and our moral was hightened just enough to ease our last etappe into Mansilla.

A very frindly German Hospitaliero greeted us there, and the man with magic hands was carefully working on various peregrinos, in order to ease their ailments. He saw that I was hobbling and asked me to sit down whilst he then rested his hands on my shoulders. Following his instructions to take a walk around the courtyard, I did, and was amazed at just how much his work had assisted my throbbing legs. He also told me of the 3 musts when walking the Camino… If you wear boots, leave the last 3 laceholes open, Walk no faster than 4.5 kms per hour and lat but not least, Drink at least one litre of water per every 10 kms… wish I’d known this from the outset, it woul have averted much pain and the necessity for so many rest days.

Next morning off to Leon and I checked in early to the Benedictine Alberge in the centre of town. I layed down early for a rest and especially to raise my legs as instructed in Mansilla. After about 2.5 hours a tribe of Peregrinos came in, very loud and totally disrespectfull of the needs of others. Amoung them was an Australian woman who rnfrom one room to the other complaing like mad that there was no air in the place. This she did for about half an hour, when it finally got too much and I said what do you want for nothing (donation only) and witout hesitation, I packed my things and headed for the door. I had such a bad feeling about the night to come with this unruly crowd, I jut had to leave… and as I ran out of the door, who should I bump into… Tara from UK… and when she asked where I was going… I said “anywhere but here,let’s go” and we both headed out of town to Virgen de Camino, having first taken in the important sights of th town. The Cathedral was unfortunately closed for restorations, but we did manage to see other fine sights on the way out. (So this was the flight out of Leaon for those who were curious ;)

Having made a wonderfully healthy evening meal at the new Refugio in Virgen we all headed for an early night.

The next morning to us via Chozas de Abajo and Villar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo where we were amazed by the pure beauty of this medieval town with it’s wonderful bridge. (see pic)

On the following morning, I had to bid my guardian angels, Tara & Bastian, of the last week, as I told them I needed to rest my leg. They were relieved at last to hear that I was going to do this, as they were becomming concerned at my stubborness to continue against all odds. Who knows when we’ll see each other again… but one thing is for sure… they were true companions, and I enjoyed eery moment spent with them… love to you both wherever you are ;-( and take care…
So I did as I was told and am currently here in Astorga resting (well except for writing this update) and depending on how my legs look in the morning, I’ll decide onmy next move… towards the mountain “Cruz de Ferro”…

Good night all, and keep following

Loe, Paul

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{ 21 comments… read them below or add one }

Breda May 4, 2009 at 7:04 pm

Hope you are healing psysically , Paul,
Love,
Breda

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SILVIA (SPAIN) May 4, 2009 at 2:52 pm

Dear Paul,
Back from the long weekend, it is nice to read that you keep going on your path.
Tomorrow you will have a hard walk to O Cebreiro, but you will feel good when you arrive to the top. The views are beautifull from there and the small village seems to be lost in the time.
Enjoy your day and don’t forget to listen the signs from the path and from your body (my ankles suffered a lot when I did O Cebreiro).
Good luck and love,
Silvia

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Dora Gonzalez May 4, 2009 at 10:34 am

Hi!very happy to open my mail and find this forum. I just want to say something about The Peace topic…I think that it is possible for people to live in peace. The key is Balance with oneself, with the creator and with every being in the universe. I believe peace never can be bored and it does not prevent Passion to be present in every moment of our life.

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Dora Gonzalez May 4, 2009 at 10:25 am

Hola!…solo quiero comentar sobre el tema de la paz…creo que es viable…no es una utopia…la paz es posible entre los hombres porque creo que el resto d seres viven en paz que seria lo mismo que en harmonia…pienso que la clave seria el equilibrio con uno mismo, con el creador y con el universo…ese balance no le quita un centimo a la pasion que es la que realmente sasona cada instante de la vida.

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astrology_leader May 4, 2009 at 12:08 am

many people say ” is a journey you will not forget easily”. sounds nice. sounds wonderful if we think in this lifetime terms.sounds……
the trips sounds exciting. And since i cannot compare with anyone,because each of us sees the same experience with different eyes, ill speak from my own point of view: every trip has the same smell, maybe because is the idea of facing the unknown.you have no idea what the next second brings you, what people you are going to meet, which experiences your soul is going to remember. i`m sure every time i meet “strangers” they are actually my fellows i have met in another time and under other circumstances. thats why i love to travel. because i am eager to meet all these strangers again, enjoy their company for a while and then move forward.And above all i adore those people who enter my life for a couple of hours or days and after we share something together, we then follow our destinies, going on on our different roads, forgetting each other the next second.
i think every trip is so exciting because of the feeling that you have a place to return. you have a life you leave behind for a while and after you return, glad to see the others who were waiting for you did not change so much. a bit surprised that sometimes it takes you a couple of days to fit in and to find your place again.
Thanks God this time i have parents who are waiting for me ,a place to come, friends who are happy to see me again.I`m smiling. I became too attached to reality.

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THELMA May 3, 2009 at 6:01 pm

Dearest Paul, no news from you!! It seems you are on the mountains and there is no Internet connection!
I suppose this is the idea of the Pilgrimage. Just you, the journey and God!
May God bless you and take care.
LOVE,
Thelma.

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Alexandra May 3, 2009 at 4:52 pm

Dear Paul,
Wish you a wonderful time, health and only good things. Take care, Love
Alexandra

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Heart May 3, 2009 at 12:03 am

Hey Paul,

Just a quick note. I have had the pleasure of taking a look at Thelma’s pictures from Paris, and got to see several of you too. So, I just want to tell you that you look like a very nice man!
I can imagine a pilgrimage is much harder than daily work outs when you know exactly how far and how long you will keep going, in contrast to the unknown road you are walking right now. Very different, our everyday routine life, and life during traveling to new places. God Bless the rest of your pilgrimage.

Heart
PS Excuse my English!!! :) My husband says it’s improving. Still, the other day I went to a jewelry store and asked for huff caps (I was looking for cuff lings), and the lady gave me such a dirty look, that I just said ‘Whatever’ and left the store! I thought she treated me like that because I didn’t look rich enough or something. It took a while before I realized my mistake. I just mixed the words. The poor lady must be thinking I’m insane. Hehe.

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Yajna May 2, 2009 at 7:18 pm

Dear Paul,

I just wanted to say that despite my lack of comments in the last few days, as i’ve been busy, i have been reading all your updates and i’d just like to say that may thoughts have been with you, and i certainly admire your persistance towards your goal regardless of your set backs. Please do take care of your foot though, remember if you don’t have your health in this world, you cant exist so please look after yourself and listen to your body.

I do have a question though- I think at some point in my life i’d love to go on such a journey. Is it safe walking everywhere? i know it may seem like a silly question, but i’m from a third world country, and even in the day time, walking here often means us looking both forward and back constantly.

May God Bless

Lots of love,
Yajna

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rosa de los vientos May 2, 2009 at 6:54 pm

PAUL WHERE ARE YOU TOMORROW?
I HOPE YOU FIND A GOOD PATH AND THE TREES TO SEPARATE FOR LEFT YOU GO TO SANTIAGO BECAUSE HE WAIT FOR YOU. THE ENERGY VIBRE IN YOUR HEARTH BECAUSE THE OM FROM OCEAM CALL YOU AND YOU GO NEAR.
KISES FOR YOU AND TO ALL PEOPLE WRITE IN HERE.

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Paola C (Daxehs) May 2, 2009 at 8:29 am

Con el transcurso de cada dia me asombro mas y mas de sus logros, en este viaje que es el principio de un gran cambio para usted, me doy cuenta que yo también he sido su compañera de viaje de alguna manera y he aprendido algunas cosas para cuando yo recorra el Camino de Santiago o haga una peregrinación a la virgen del Lourdes. Estoy muy contenta por usted porque sé que se ha vuelto parte del camino y éste le empezó a hablar, haciendo que usted mismo se cuestione y crezca con sus respuestas.
El exito ha ido de la mano con usted desde el mismo momento que decidió arriesgarse a transformar su vida. Que las bendiciones sean derramadas sobre usted Sr Paul from Austria.
Con cariño Paola.

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marie-christine May 2, 2009 at 5:18 am

Gut morgen Paul,
Is it still cold over there?
The massage on the shoulders from the Hospitaliero was most welcomed by the sound of it.
I see you have to lit the fire as well and prepare the “Paella”(I’m just guessing) – the hint with the rice -. Have you perfected it yet?
You lost me there with the i-phone bit and the GPS…not too sure what to make of that. It is another language – a Phd in telecommunications might be on the shortlist -
Keep up the rythm and dance.
:)

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Nanci May 1, 2009 at 11:36 pm

Dear Paul, I’m glad to know that you found some healing hands and some helpful instructions for continuing the physical part of your journey.

I have been a runner and a walker, and can tell you that the muscles, bones, tendons and ligaments in your legs and feet, react differently to these two types of exercise. You would think that by because you are a runner that walking would be a piece of cake, but I’ve found that is not necessarily so. Your lungs, heart and circulatory system are probably in great shape for walking due to your running so you can be thankful for that! LOL

Continue to be kind to your body as you move along your path. It is, after all, what houses your soul…

Sending healing thoughts your way,

Nanci

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Breda May 1, 2009 at 9:38 pm

what an adventure-not for the faint hearted ! and meeting the Great and the Good!! and the loud!!
Well done on your amazing journey thus far,
Enjoy your rest thanks for writing your news for us Paul
Love
Breda

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B*Sofie May 1, 2009 at 7:16 pm

Pilgrim Paul

I only “know U” through this blog
but it occurs to me that the world
is changing even more rapidly
People connect & share as if there were
some kind of group-soul out there

It`s inspiring to follow your journey &
I admire your efforts in sharing with us

Hope & believe you`ll find your treasure*

Take care

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THELMA May 1, 2009 at 5:40 pm

‘I have to slow down, in everyday life and just respect and accept the fact that the body cannot always keep pace with the mind…?’

Thank you, dearest Paul, for sharing with us your Journey. Your above sentence made me smile… I always knew it and especially I felt it whenever I felt soooo sleepy or tired to do things that otherwise would give me pleasure.. There is a phrase in the Gospel in the Garden of Gesthemane said by Jesus to his disciples, who were asleep : The spirit is eager, but the .. flesh is weak!
Our bodies are of this dimension and this world and obey to the material laws of decay, but our spirit is a spark of Divine Light!

The people you meet is a micro-cosmos of society!! Everybody with his character and individuality. I cannot stand ‘rude’, demanding and noisy people, either.. So you did well that you went away. Those people absorb all the energy from others!!

I am happy that the juke-box was playing ‘the Blue Danube’ reminding you of .. Austria. Yes water is the most important … element for our bodies and … complexion!! ;] I am thrilled that you have met .. healing hands on your Path, soothing your wounds.
Our Father’s Angels.
Take care on the mountains.
LOVE,
Thelma.

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Danil May 1, 2009 at 4:51 pm

I want to spend all my life in travellings – this is my Wright way and Wright fight, i understood it after long and long hours of self-communions.
Please, help me)

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CM May 1, 2009 at 4:17 pm

dear Paul,

I learned yesterday that before catholics stole the saint-jacques’s path, to make it its, you had to go to the sea, to bring a shell. Of course you can’t find the shell, even in your last step yo chose there. Then go back to lourdes. Your trip here is the touristic catholic path.
Because. When you have an aim, you go to it, ok. But on the return back to Lourdes, or other towns you begin with, you have no aim, and so the transformation comes.
This path is pagan before catholic, and I thought, it would be good for you to know.

Enough lies I guess.

But you’re not arrived, and I congratulate you for the less you do.

Good trip man, and happy first may!

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Danil May 1, 2009 at 3:00 pm

Hello Paulo,
I m Danil and I m from Russia. Some days ago my mother asked me to read your book “Diary of the Mag” or in original “O Diario de um mago”, and I ve’done it.
I can’t believe everything, what I’ve read about, but I want to ask you: could you organize the same journey, road, way to the real life? I love travalling, I m very tired from internet, Tv, and a lot of things, surrounding me.
If you can, do it and put me on the Wrigt way and Wright fight. I really want this.
Oh, I am only 17 – but it isn’t a problem, is it?
Wait for your answer.
Danil Schhokin.

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Alexandra May 1, 2009 at 2:00 pm

Dear Paul, so wonderful your story. You have a real adventure, I can see. Thats why you wont forget things easily, maybe also because of the difficulties. I am happy to hear you are taking rest, I was concerned to hear you were hobbling. The man who healed you with his hands, must be an unique experience. Would like to meet one myself. Really strange you needed fire, here is so warm.But after all, you are doing all just in the best way. Really surprising.Glad you met so nice people, Tara and Bastian. Was a sign from God ? Maybe yes. To show you He is near .I wish you once again a wonderful time, all the best. God be with you,
Love, Alexandra
Take care

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Akua May 1, 2009 at 1:43 pm

Dear Paul,

I am so glad that you decided to share with us your impressions and adventures. I have a great deal of respect for your determination to arrive at the allotted date, and even more to accept that your body needs to slow down, inspite of this, and go at its natural pace. I have always believed that the journey not so much the goal was important. The goal rather being the focal point. The journey being experience and the lessons learnt.
I wish you a safe and infornative journey, and wish you all that you wish for yourself.
And thank you again for sharing, as we are all learning alongside you.
Best wishes, Akua

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