Archive for the 'Walking The Path' Category

What the path means

Dear reader:

I have been on this journey since 20 March, this being the way I chose to commemorate the twentieth anniversary of my first pilgrimage on the Way to Santiago. This has taken me to three different continents (Europe, Africa and the Far East) and has enabled me to come into direct contact with thousands of readers, since the moment I decided that it was impossible to celebrate anything without their presence.

At Puente de la Reina I held my first autograph afternoon without any “official planning”, and since then I have managed to combine some organized meetings with other absolutely spontaneous ones. All these autograph-afternoons were followed by parties where together we commemorated the meaning that the path holds: encounters. To commemorate, celebrate, discuss, dance, and respect the mystery of life, but at the same time to understand that we are not alone in this mystery and that we need to share our enchantment with other people who understand our way of thinking.

On 19 April I created this blog together with Paula Braconnot, so that all these experiences could reach beyond physical space and enter virtual space as well. I would like to take this opportunity to thank Paula for her professionalism, love and dedication, which overcame all the technical difficulties.

My next stop before going back home will be Germany, where I will attend the World Cup as guest of FIFA. As I don’t think I will be able to say anything new about football, today I am bringing these texts to an end. Any comments will be most welcome, so that we can perfect the idea of having a blog for occasional conversations.

On 22 June, God willing, I shall be returning to my point of departure, the old mill in the Pyrenees, and right after that I go back to Brazil.

Every two weeks I send a newsletter to interested readers. Whoever wants to receive these can register a, which is available in some languages.

On one of my first stops on this pilgrimage, I found myself in a village in Spain. There I wrote the text below. I believe that, no matter where we come from, we can always reach far beyond what we imagined. This is the example that Francisco gave us, the example we should follow.

I dedicate this path to my readers. Many thanks for the support you have all lent me, and for the nights that I spent reading your messages, which always encouraged me to proceed on my journey. The meaning of the path lies in people, and we always see the world better when we allow the mystery of our encounters to be unveiled. As the last sentence in The Pilgrimage says: “people always turn up when they are expected.”

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: Francis

I am having coffee on the terrace of the hotel looking on to a castle, a gigantic castle in this little village with few houses in the province of Navarra, Spain. Night has fallen but there is no moon. I am repeating by car my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela to commemorate the twentieth anniversary of the first time I traveled this road.

The village where I find myself, however, is not part of the route, which passes about 19 kilometers from here. I planned to visit it, and here I am. Five hundred years ago a man called Francisco was born in this place. He must have played a lot in the fields that surround the castle. He must have swum in the river that runs close by. The son of rich parents, he left his village to complete his studies at the famous Sorbonne in Paris. I imagine it was his first long journey.

Francis was athletic, good-looking, intelligent and envied by all the other students – except one, who came from the same distant Spanish province and whose name was Ignatius. Ignatius said to him: “Francis, you think too much about yourself. Why don’t you dedicate yourself to thinking about other things, like God, for instance?” I do not know why, but Francis, the most handsome and bravest student at the Sorbonne, is convinced by Ignatius. They get together with other students and found a society which is the laughing stock of all the others, who even write on the door of the room where they meet: Society of Jesus. Instead of feeling offended, they adopt the name. And from that moment on, Francis begins a journey without return.

He goes to Rome with Ignatius and asks the Pope to recognize the “society”. The Pontiff agrees to meet the students, and in order to stimulate them he gives his consent. Francis – who was deadly afraid of ships and the sea – sets off alone to the Orient, imbued with what he considers to be his mission. In the next ten years he visits Africa, India, Sumatra, the Moluccas and Japan. He learns new languages, visits hospitals, prisons, cities and villages. He writes many letters, but none – absolutely none – makes any reference to “tourist” spots in these places. He comments only on the need to bring a word of encouragement and hope to those who are less privileged.

He dies far from the village where I now sit having my coffee, and he is buried in Goa. At a time when the world was immense, distances were almost insurmountable and people lived at war, Francis thought that he should consider the world as a global village. He overcame his fear of the sea and ships and solitude, because he was aware that his life had a meaning. While traveling through the Orient, he does not know that his steps will never be forgotten and that all he has planted will bear fruit; he is doing all this because this is his personal legend, the way he has chosen to lead his life.

Five hundred years later, in the city of Ahmedabad in India, a teacher asks his pupils for a biography of Francis. One of the boys writes: “he was a great architect, because all over the Orient there are schools he built and that bear his name.”

Antonio Falces, who directs one of these colleges, tells me he heard two people chatting:

“Francis was Portuguese,” said one.

“Of course he wasn’t. He was born and buried here in Goa,” answered the other.

They are both wrong, and they are both right: Francis came from a small village in Navarra, but he was a man of the world, and everyone considered him a part of their own people. Nor was he an architect specialized in building schools, but, as one of his first biographers says, “he was like the sun, which cannot move forward without spreading light and heat wherever it passes.”

I think of Francis: leaving here, traveling the world, making the name of this little village known in so many places that many people believe it is his surname. Facing his fears, giving up everything on behalf of his dreams – may this inspire and serve as an example to me, who studied in one of the colleges of the so-called “society of Jesus”, or S.J., or Jesuit schools, as they are known.

Here I am in the village of Javier. Both Francisco and Ignatius, who hailed from another small village called Loyola, were canonized on the same day – 12 March 1622. on that morning a banner was hung on one of the walls of the Vatican:

“Saint Francis Javier worked many miracles. But the miracle of Saint Ignatius was even greater: Francis Javier.”

You can continue to talk to Paulo Coelho through the blog Warrior of Light

Twenty years later: On the banks of Lake Baikal II

It’s five o’clock in the afternoon and I am watching the water flowing past. I follow the little stream until it runs into one of the prettiest places on earth: Lake Baikal in Siberia. “A river never passes the same place twice,” says the philosopher. “Life is like a river,” says another philosopher, which leads us to the conclusion that this is the closest metaphor to the meaning of life.

But today I have just discovered something different: there is a river inside the river, one that shows the path to follow, the soul of the waters beside me in this small village where we can still see a well where the inhabitants come to fetch water. How long has it been since I last saw a real well, one that gives a whole village water to drink?

I contemplate the river again, try to be like it, and see the lessons that it is teaching me now:

A] We are always experiencing the first time. While we pass from our source (birth) to our destination (death), the landscapes will always be new to us. We must face all these novelties with joy rather than fear – because it is useless to fear what cannot be avoided. A river never stops flowing.

B] In a valley we walk more slowly. When everything around us becomes easier, the waters are calm; we grow broader, more expansive, more generous.

C] Our banks are always fertile. Vegetation only grows where there is water. Whoever comes into contact with us needs to understand that we are here to give those who are thirsty something to drink.

D] Stones have to be avoided. Of course, water is stronger than granite, but that requires a lot of time. It is no use letting yourself be dominated by stronger obstacles, or trying to fight them – that is just a waste of energy. The best thing is to understand where the exit lies, and move in that direction.

E] Depressions call for patience. All of a sudden the river runs into a kind of hole and stops flowing as joyfully as before. At such moments the only way out is to rely on the help of time. When the right moment arrives, the depression fills up and the water can move ahead. Instead of an ugly, lifeless hole, now there is a lake that others can look on with happiness.

F] We are unique. We are born in a place that was meant for us and that will always keep us supplied with enough water so that when faced with depressions we may have the necessary patience or strength to move forward. We start our course in a gentle, fragile way, when even a simple leaf can stop our progress. However, as we respect the mystery of the source that generated us and trust in its eternal wisdom, little by little we gain all that is needed to follow our path.

G] Although we are unique, soon we shall be many. As we travel on, the waters from other sources join us, because that is the best path to follow. So we are no longer just one, but many – and there comes a moment when we feel lost. Nevertheless, as the Bible says, “all the rivers flow to the sea”. It is impossible to remain in our solitude, however romantic that may seem. When we accept the inevitable encounter with other sources, we end up understanding that this makes us far stronger and we get round obstacles or fill in depressions much more easily and in far less time.

H] We are a means of transportation. Of leaves, boats, ideas. May our waters be ever generous, may we always carry forward all the things or persons that need our help.

I] We are a source of inspiration. And so, let us leave the final words to the Brazilian poet Manuel Bandeira:

“Be like a river that flows
Silent in the middle of the night
Not fearing the dark of the night,
Reflecting any star that is in the sky.
And if the sky fills with clouds,
Clouds are water, like the river, so
Reflect them too with no regret In the silent depth.”

******

The next text (and last one for this pilgrimage) will be posted on the 10th of June.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: At Lake Baikal

The sentence belongs to Pablo Picasso: “God is above all an artist. He invented the giraffe, the elephant, and the ant. In fact, He never tried to follow a style – He simply went on doing what He felt like doing”.

Our wanting to walk is what creates our path – yet, when we start our journey towards our dreams, we feel very afraid, as if we were obliged to do everything right.

After all, if we all live different lives, who was it who invented the “everything right” standard?”

If God made the giraffe, the elephant and the ant, and if we try to live in His image and likeness, why should we need to follow a model? Sometimes the model helps us to avoid repeating stupid mistakes that others have already committed, but normally it is a prison that obliges us always to repeat what everybody does.

To be coherent is to need always to wear a necktie that matches our socks. It is to be obliged to keep the same opinions tomorrow that you have today. So what about the way the world moves?

As long as nobody is hurt, change your opinion every now and again, and contradict yourself without feeling ashamed. This is your right; it does not matter what the others think – because they are going to think it anyway.

When we decide to act, some excesses will happen. As the old cooking saying goes: “to make an omelet, first of all you have to break an egg”. So it is also natural that unexpected conflicts will arise.

It is only natural that there will be injuries during these conflicts. The wounds pass: only the scars remain.

This is a blessing. These scars stay with us for the rest of our lives, and they help us a lot. If at any moment – due to complacency or some other reason – the desire to go back to the past is great, just look at your scars.

Scars will show us the signs of handcuffs, they will remind us of the horrors of prison – and we will keep on moving forward.

So, relax. Let the Universe move all around you and discover the joy of being a surprise to yourself. “God chose the crazy things of the world to embarrass the wise”, says Saint Paul.

A Warrior of Light notices that certain moments are repeated; he often finds himself facing the same problems, and he confronts situations he has confronted before.

Then he becomes depressed. He begins to feel that he is incapable of making any progress in life, since the same things he has lived through in the past are happening all over again.

“I have been through this”, he complains to his heart.

“You really have”, answers his heart. “But you have never gone beyond it”.

The Warrior then begins to realize that repeated experiences have a reason, which is to teach us that we have not yet learned. He always finds a different solution for each repeated fight – and he does not see his faults as mistakes, but rather as steps towards meeting himself.

Phrases on mistakes

If you cheat me once, the blame is yours. If you cheat me twice, the blame is mine(Anaxagoras)

If I had to live my life again, I would make the same mistakes – only sooner (Tallulah Bankhead)

The path to success is getting round the mistakes (Thomas Watson)

Until you have known the Inferno, Paradise will not be good enough for you (Kurdish proverb)

To err is human, but it makes you feel divine! (Mae West)

Doing the right thing is not the problem; the problem is knowing what is right (Lyndon Johnson)

Not everything that works out right is right (David Capistrano)

I prefer making a mistake that amuses me to doing something right that makes me sad (William Shakespeare)

The next text will be posted on the 7th of June.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: Between Novosibirsk and Irkutsk

It is still impossible to write on the train, because of all the shaking. I meet readers at the stations (see the photos in the gallery), talk with them, learn a lot from their eyes and the few words we manage to exchange. Some tell stories, others talk of their cities and the regions they come from.

One of them tells me: “Do you know exactly where you are right now? You are in a train station, along with many other people, and at this very moment there is a good chance that many people hold in their hearts the same hopes and despair as you.

“Let’s go on: you are a microscopic dot on the surface of a ball. This ball revolves around another, which in turn is located in a little corner of a galaxy, together with millions of similar balls.

“This galaxy is part of something called the Universe, full of gigantic stellar agglomerations. Nobody knows exactly where what we call the Universe starts and ends.

“Even so, don’t let yourself be beaten by the fatigue of the journey: you fight, make efforts, and try to improve, you have dreams, grow happy or sad because of Love. If you weren’t alive, something would be missing.”

I do not know where the reader found these words (he was reading from a piece of paper), but those are the words I needed to hear at that moment.

*****

Two stops further ahead, a reader tells me a story about a carpenter and his assistants traveling through the province of Qi (at the moment we are very near China), in search of building material. They saw a giant tree, so big that five men holding hands cannot embrace it, and so tall that it touches the clouds.

“Let’s not waste our time on this tree,” said the master carpenter. “It will take us so long to cut it down. If we want to make a boat, the trunk is so heavy that it will sink. If we decide to use it for the structure of a roof, the walls will have to be made exaggeratedly thick.”

The group continued on its way. One of the apprentices remarked:

“Such a big tree and no use for anything!”

“You are wrong,” said the master carpenter. “It has followed its destiny in its own way. If it were like the others, we would have cut it down. But because it had the courage to be different, it will stay alive and strong for a long time.”

*****

The Taoists tell that in the beginning of time Spirit and Matter waged a mortal combat. Finally Spirit triumphed – and Matter was condemned to live for ever inside the Earth.

Before that happened, however, his head hit against the firmament and broke the star-filled sky into pieces.

The goddess Niuka emerged from the sea, resplendent in her armor of fire. Boiling the colors of the rainbow in a cauldron, she managed to put the stars back in their proper places, but was unable to find two small slivers, and the firmament was incomplete.

This is the origin of love: two souls are always crossing the Earth, each in search of its Other Part. When they meet, they manage to fit together the two parts that are missing in the sky and the whole Universe then makes sense to the couple.

I think constantly about this as the Trans-Siberian train crosses this long steppe.

*****

Unbelievable as it may sound, many people are afraid of happiness. To these people, feeling good with life means changing a whole set of habits – and losing their own identity.

We often feel unworthy of the good things that happen to us. We do not accept miracles – because accepting them makes us feel that we owe something to God. Besides, we are afraid of “getting used” to happiness.

We think: “better not to drink of the cup of happiness, because we will miss it so much when we no longer have it”.

For fear of diminishing, we stop growing. For fear of crying, we stop laughing.

*****

In the train I meet someone coming from Morocco who tells me a strange story about how certain desert tribes see original sin.

Eve was strolling in the Garden of Eden when the serpent came up to her.

“Eat this apple”, said the serpent.

Very well instructed by God, Eve refused.

“Eat this apple”, insis¬ted the serpent,” because you have to make yourself more beautiful for your man”.

“I don’t have to”, answered Eve. “Because he has no other woman but me”.

The serpent laughed: “Of course he does”.

And since Eve did not believe him, he led her to the top of a hill, where there was a well.

“She is inside this cave; Adam hid her there”.

Eve leaned over and saw a beautiful woman reflected in the water of the well. Immediately she ate the apple that the serpent offered her.

According to this same Moroccan tribe, all those who recognize themselves in the reflection of the well and are no longer afraid of themselves, return to Paradise.

The next text will be posted on the 4th of June.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: Between Ekaterinburg and Novosibirsk

I am right in the heart of Siberia. At certain moments I have wondered for the thousandth time about these 90 days of pilgrimage to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the first time I followed the Way to Santiago. When I was in Sofia I thought of giving up, and now I am happy that I kept on, although I cannot manage to write on the train because of the constant shaking of the carriage, but at least I can scribble down some notes and transcribe them on the computer when I arrive at some city that is connected to the Internet. In this way the people who are accompanying this blog will be able to understand my state of mind better.

****

One of the people on the train shows me a prayer that she claims was found among the belongings of a Jew who died in a concentration camp:

“Lord: when You come in Your glory, do not remember just the men of good will; remember also the men of bad will.

“And on Doomsday, do not only remember the cruelty, torture and violence that they practiced: remember too the fruits that we produced due to what they did to us. Remember the patience, courage, solidarity, humility, grandeur of spirit and fidelity that our torturers ended up arousing in our souls.

“Lord, grant that the fruits we produce can serve to save the souls of men of bad will.”

****

I have to live all the graces that God has given me today. Grace is not for saving up. There is no bank where we deposit the graces received so that later we can use them as we wish. If I do not enjoy these blessings, I shall lose them for ever.

God knows that we are life’s artists. One day he gives us a chisel to make sculptures, the next day brushes and a canvas, and then a pen for writing. But we will never be able to use a chisel on a canvas, or a pen on a sculpture. Each day has its own miracle. I must accept today’s blessings in order to create what I have; if I do this with a sense of detachment and without feeling guilty, tomorrow I shall receive more.

****

Life is like a long bicycle race meant to carry out our personal legend. At the start we are all together, sharing camaraderie and enthusiasm. But as the race develops, the initial joy gives way to the real challenges: fatigue, monotony, and doubts as to one’s own ability.

We notice that some friends have given up the challenge – they are still racing, but just because they cannot stop in the middle of the road; there are many of them, riding alongside the support car, chatting with one another, fulfilling an obligation.

We end up separating from them, and then we are obliged to face loneliness, surprises at the unknown bends, problems with the bicycle. And at the end of some time we begin to wonder whether it is all worth so much effort.

Yes, it is worth it. The thing is not to give up.

Aside from everything else, if we stop pedaling, we end up falling to the ground.

****

Of all the powerful arms of destruction that man has been capable of inventing, the most terrible – and most cowardly – are words.

Knives and fire-arms leave marks of blood. Bombs destroy buildings and streets. Poisons are eventually detected.

But destructive words manage to arouse evil without leaving any tracks. Children are conditioned by their parents for years, artists mercilessly criticized, women systematically massacred by their husbands’ remarks, the faithful kept far from religion by those who claim they are capable of interpreting God’s voice.

Try to see if you are using this arm. Try to see if they are using this arm against you. And allow neither of these two things.

****

In one of his rare writings, the wise Sufi Hafik comments on the idea of the Journey:

“Accept wisely the fact that the Road is filled with contradictions. The Road often denies itself so as to stimulate the traveler to find out what lies beyond the next bend.

“If two traveling companions are following the same method, that means that one of them is on the wrong path. Because there are no formulas to attain the truth of the Road, and each of us must run the risks of his own steps. “Only the ignorant seek to imitate the behavior of others. Intelligent men waste no time with that, they develop their personal abilities; they know there are no two leaves alike in a forest of a hundred thousand trees. No two journeys on the same Road are alike”.

****

Siberian proverbs (that I believe are universal):

If you cannot be a star in the sky, be a bulb in your home.

After death the wise man stays alive, although his body is reduced to ashes. But the ignorant man, even when alive, is already dead.

Love is a sickness that nobody wants to be cured of. Whoever has been attacked by it does not attempt to get better, and those who suffer from it do not want to be healed.

When you see two dragons fighting, keep your distance and do not try to separate them; they might patch things up between themselves and end up attacking you.

The next text will be posted on the 1st of June.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: Between Moscow and Ekaterinburg

I reach the carriage to take me on the Trans-Siberian laden with books, thinking that I would have lots of time during these 9,228 kilometers of train ride. Right away I discover that it is impossible to write or read anything because of the movement and absence of good shock absorbers. All that I can do is think and scribble some notes when we pull in at a station.

*****

We are all part of God’s dream; like characters who inhabit our dreams, we have a certain independence. We are not He who is dreaming, but we are part of Him. I hope this does not bring me nightmares, I hope I can sleep peacefully at night.

*****

Lord, protect our doubts, because doubt is a way of praying. It is what makes us grow, because it obliges us to look without fear at the many answers to the same question.

And for this to be possible, Lord, protect our decisions, because decision is a way of praying. Give us the courage, after doubt, to choose between one path and another. Let our YES always be a YES, and our NO always a NO. Once our path is chosen, let us never look backwards or let our soul be gnawed by remorse.

And for this to be possible, Lord, protect our actions, because action is a way of praying. Make our daily bread be the fruit of the best that we carry within us. May we be able through work and Action to share a little of the love we receive.

And for this to be possible, Lord, protect our dreams, because dreaming is a way of praying. Enable us, whatever our age and circumstances, to keep alive in our hearts the sacred flame of hope and perseverance.

And for this to be possible, Lord, let us always be filled with enthusiasm, because enthusiasm is a way of praying. That is what links us to Heaven and Earth, to men and children, and tells us that desire is important and deserves our efforts. That is what assures us that everything is possible, as long as we are totally committed to what we do.

And for this to be possible, Lord, protect us because life is the only way we have to show your miracle. May the earth keep changing the seed to wheat, may we keep changing the wheat to bread. And this is only possible if we have love – so never leave us alone. Always give us Your company, and the company of men and women who have doubts, and act and dream and become enthusiastic and live as if each and every day were completely dedicated to Your glory.

Amen.

*****

I reckon that it takes about three minutes to read my text. Well, according to statistics, in that same short period of time 300 people will die and another 620 will be born.

It takes me perhaps half an hour to write a text: here I sit, concentrating on my computer, books piled up beside me, ideas in my head, the scenery passing by outside my window. Everything seems perfectly normal all around me; and yet, during these thirty minutes, 3,000 people have died and 6,200 have just seen the light of the world for the first time.

Where are all those thousands of families who have just begun to weep over the loss of some dear one, or else laugh at the arrival of a son, grandson or brother?

I stop and reflect for a while: perhaps many of these deaths are reaching the end of a long, painful sickness, and some persons are relieved that the Angel has come for them. Besides these, in all certainty hundreds of children who have just been born will be abandoned in a minute and transferred to the death statistics before I finish this text.

What a thought! A simple statistic that I came upon by chance – and all of a sudden I can feel all those losses and encounters, smiles and tears. How many are leaving this life, alone in their rooms, without anyone realizing what is going on? How many will be born in secret, only to be abandoned at the door of shelters or convents?

And then I reflect that I was part of the birth statistics and one day I will be included in the toll of the dead. How good that is to be fully aware that I am going to die. Ever since I took the road to Santiago I have understood that although life goes on and we are eternal, one day this existence will come to an end.

People think very little about death. They spend their lives worried about really absurd things, putting things off and leaving important moments aside. They risk nothing because they believe that is dangerous. They grumble a lot, but act like cowards when it is time to take certain steps. They want everything to change, but they themselves refuse to change.

If they thought a little more about death, they would never fail to make that telephone call that they have been putting off. They would be a little more crazy. They would not be afraid of the end of this incarnation – because you cannot be afraid of something that is going to happen anyway.

The Indians say: “today is as good a day as any other to leave this world”. And a sorcerer once remarked: “may death be always sitting beside you. That way, when you have to do something important, it will give you the strength and courage you need.”

I hope, reader, that have accompanied me this far. It would be silly to let the subject scare you, because sooner or later we are all going to die. And only those who accept this are prepared for life.

The next text will be posted on the 29th of May.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: let’s be honest

After spending five special days in Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, for the first time I board a plane of the Bulgarian Air company, which will carry me to my next destination on this journey without (many) plans that I am making in tribute to the 20 years since my pilgrimage on the Way to Santiago.

Since it is forbidden to turn on your computer before and during take-off, I take a look at the airline magazine. Like all other airline company magazine, I know that it will describe the marvels of the country, which I am not very interested in because my visit has been wonderful, so nobody has to tell me again how marvelous the place is. Years ago, during the extremely harsh communist regime when no-one could visit the country, a Brazilian author wrote a book questioning the very existence of Bulgaria: he claimed that he had never known a soul who had come here. So, maybe it was all one big conspiracy to make us believe in a reality that did not exist. The book, of course, is very funny, without any criticism of the Bulgarians, but it does explore the fact that the collective imagination can sometimes be manipulated.

I am thinking of that writer as I read the airline magazine when suddenly, among the pages where normally you find advice about hotels, restaurants and boarding procedures, I come across something that fascinates and surprises me:

A] Walking through the center of Sofia means having to confront cars parked on the sidewalk, people hooting their horns in your ears, dogs straying loose on the street, and holes that appear without any notice to warn pedestrians.

B] If you want to take a bus, remember that the doors are small, so there is a good chance that you will hurt yourself while boarding. Toss a one-lev coin (the local currency) in the driver’s lap, shout where you want to get off, and be aware that the buses do not always respect bus stops. Don’t let that put you in a bad mood.

C] If you’re driving, take all the following items into account: a driver’s license, passport, stainless-steel nerves, eyes that must not blink for an instant, traffic lights that look like hieroglyphics (Bulgaria uses the Cyrillic alphabet), and mad drivers.

D] When you stop at a traffic light, be prepared to see your car surrounded by a crowd of children ready to clean your windshields: be firm, don’t accept!

E] Traffic policemen are “prodigiously venal” and are watching out for you. Behave like a saint, do not stress out, not unless you want to pay an “on-the-spot fine”, which is simply a bribe.

F] Bulgaria has a high crime rate, but please relax! You will be as safe or unsafe here as in New York, London, Paris or any other big city.

G] The lighting is awful during the night.

H] Shopkeepers never have change. Ask at your hotel for low-value bills, otherwise you run the risk of waiting for twenty minutes while the salesperson goes to the neighbor or to the closest bank to get change.

I] To get back to the buses: some of them have a terrifying machine at the door, and you have to discover fast how to extract your ticket from there. Remember that public transportation is paid everywhere in the world. Of course, chances are great that during your journey you will see inspectors boarding the bus and asking the passengers for their tickets, but most of them won’t have tickets, so there will be an argument and they will all end up having to pay a fine. Since you have overcome all these problems by already buying a ticket, you can watch all these arguments without any fear.

Let’s be honest: almost any big city in the world suffers from most of these problems (the ticket situation, for example, is something I have experienced in Amsterdam). But this is the first time that an airline company has ever mentioned such problems. Congratulations on having the courage to do so, this has made me love the country and its people all the more.

The next text will be posted on the 26th of May.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: the two wise men

Once upon a time there was a wise man called Sidi Mehrez. He was very annoyed with the place where he lived, a beautiful town on the Mediterranean Sea where men and women lived in depraved fashion, and money was the only value that mattered. As Mehrez was also a saint and worked miracles, he decided to enfold Tunis in his long scarf and toss it into the ocean.

Buildings began to tumble, the ground rose up, the inhabitants started to panic on seeing that they were being hurled towards their death. In despair, they decided to ask for help from a friend of Mehrez, called Sidi Ben Arous. Ben Arous managed to convince the strict saint to interrupt the destruction, but ever since then the streets of Tunis have been rough and uneven.

I stroll through the bazaar of this African city, borne by the winds of this pilgrimage to celebrate the 20th anniversary of my first walk to Santiago in 1986. I am accompanied by Adam Fathi and Samir Benali, two local writers; fifteen kilometers away stand the ruins of Carthage, which in the remote past was capable of challenging powerful Rome. We discuss the epic of Hannibal, one of the city’s warriors: the Romans expected a sea battle (the two cities were separated only by a few hundred sea kilometers), but Hannibal braved the desert, crossed the straits of Gibraltar with an enormous army, marched through Spain and France, climbed the Alps with soldiers and elephants, and attacked the Empire from the North. He defeated all the enemies in his path and then suddenly, without anyone knowing exactly why, he stopped before Rome and did not attack it at the opportune moment. The result of this indecision was that Carthage was scored off the map by the Roman ships.

We pass by a beautiful building: in 1754, one brother murdered another and their father decided to erect this palace to house a school that would keep alive the memory of his murdered son. I comment that by doing so, the murdered son would also be remembered.

“That’s not quite true,” answers Samil. “In our culture, the criminal shares the blame with all those who allowed him to commit the crime. When a man is executed, the one who sold him the arm is also responsible before God. The only way for the father to correct what he considered a fault was by changing the tragedy into something that can help others: instead of vengeance limited to punishment, the school has enabled instruction and wisdom to be transmitted for over two centuries.”

On one of the doors of the old wall hangs a lantern. Fathi comments that I am a well-known writer, whereas he is still struggling for recognition:

“Here we have the origin of one of the most famous of Arab proverbs: “light only illuminates strangers.”

I reply that Jesus made the same comment: no-one is a prophet in his own country. We always tend to lend value to what comes from afar, without ever recognizing all the beauty that is around us.

We go into an old palace that has been transformed into a cultural center. My two friends begin to explain to me the story of the place, but my attention is completely distracted by the sound of a piano and I begin to follow it through the labyrinths of the building. I end up in a room where a man and a woman, apparently oblivious to the world, are playing the “Turkish March” for four hands. I remember that some years ago I saw something similar – a pianist in a shopping center, engrossed in his music, paying no attention at all to the people who passed by talking loud or with their radios turned on.

But here there are only the three of us and the two pianists. I can see the expression on both their faces: joy, sheer and utter joy. They are not there to impress an audience, but rather because they feel that this is the gift that God has given them to talk with their souls. Likewise, the souls of Adam, Samil and Paulo also end up talking to one another, and we all feel closer to the meaning of life.

We listened in silence for an hour. At the end we applauded, and when I returned to the hotel I thought for a while about that lantern.

Yes, it may be that it only shines on the stranger, but what difference does that make when we are possessed by this vast love for what we do?

The next text will be posted on the 23th of May.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: That’s Odessa!

In the middle of the winter, Catharine the Great of Russia receives some boxes of freshly-picked oranges. A note says that they have come from a distant port, part of her Empire. “See what we are capable of; but we need your help to grow”. Impressed, the Empress of all the Russias sends an enormous amount of money so that this port can develop even more.

In fact the oranges had been brought from other countries across the Black Sea. Without telling any lies, the note to the Empress also did not tell the whole truth. But, as I came to understand as soon as I landed there, continuing the 90-day pilgrimage that I proposed to make without any fixed destination, the sentence one hears most often in the city is: “That’s Odessa!”

When I decided to take this journey, I knew that I would need to have at least one official commitment a week. That would help me to resist the temptation of interrupting the trip in the middle and returning to Brazil before the proper time. In this case, I accepted to come to Ukraine on the invitation of the government, to the forum held on the 20th anniversary of the atomic disaster in Chernobyl. The event was to last only one afternoon, and since the wind was carrying me to Ukraine I decided to stay there for another week. When they asked me what I wanted to do, I explained that I was arranging “surprise” meetings with my readers, normally giving them only two or three days’ notice. And where was the meeting to be?

“Odessa,” I answered.

Everyone seemed very surprised. Why Odessa? I answered that I had met Sergey Kostin, who had a project selected by the Schwab Foundation (I am on their Board of Directors). At the meetings held in Davos (the Foundation is connected to the World Economic Forum), I was impressed by that Ukrainian who, without speaking any English, managed to show his project and sensitize the businessmen who frequent Davos. Sergey insisted that I should come to visit his town; since I was being guided by impulses and signs, I felt that the time had come. Following a tradition that began in Puente la Reina, I asked the local book vendor to organize a book-signing party for 50 readers chosen by drawing lots.

A friend lent me his plane. When we landed, my representative in Russia asked to see the invitation to the party just to make sure everything was alright. I saw a look of fear in her eyes.

“But there’s no date, no place, no time!”

“That’s Odessa!” answered the book vendor. “Those who received the invitation will telephone 3 hours ahead for the necessary information. If they find out earlier than that, we will have many fake tickets.”

We feel that nobody will turn up, but I ask Natasha not to worry, we have no expectations, this is all part of the adventure. I visit the staircase where they filmed the strongest scene in Eisenstein’s “The Battleship Potemkin”. The party is a success, although, since “that’s Odessa!”, far more people turned up than was expected. The book vendor introduced me to a gigantic man who wanted to make a sculpture of me.

I have already received this kind of proposal. I have never accepted because I know that it means spending days posing, and I plan to go back to Kiev the next day. But the book vendor insists

“Just one hour. That’s Odessa!”

It’s the Orthodox Easter, an important day for Christianity. I feel that I should accept just to please him – I really could not stay for more than an hour, we had to get back to Kiev.

I go to his studio with some friends. Alexander Petrovich Tokarev, that is the sculptor’s name, says he spent the whole night praying in church (an Orthodox custom). Even though he has not slept, he begins to sculpt. I am a bit anxious: he will manage to do nothing in so little time. He is sweating profusely, his hands do not stop for a moment, yet his movements are precise, a sort of spiritual ballet. I look at his work all around the studio, his genius and talent. I understand his love and his capacity to accomplish things that seem impossible. There, once again I am reminded that when we want something, the whole Universe conspires in our favor.

At the end of the hour the sculpture is ready. But why should I be so surprised? That’s Odessa!

(*)The photos of the work can be seen by clicking on Photo Gallery

The next text will be posted on the 19th of May.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: the city

I stroll through the big city like I have strolled through so many other big cities in this world, and I see the same scenes: a man walking and talking on his cell phone, a boy running to catch the bus, a mother pushing a pram, a young couple kissing in a park, kids playing football in a vacant lot, churches, traffic lights, billboards. I stand waiting with a group of people to cross the street, glance at the monuments that always show great men deep in thought, bearing the world on their shoulders.

I stroll through the big city where I do not speak the language, but what difference does that make? In big cities, nobody talks to anybody – everybody is so immersed in their problems, always in a hurry. And if they are sitting in the square, or waiting for the bus, anyone who approaches is seen as a threat. Strangers are suspect, we are taught that since we are children, and we remember that for the rest of our lives. No matter how miserable or lonely they are, however much they need to share the joy of a victory or some suffocating sadness, it is better and safer to remain silent.

Even so, I go up to someone: we do not speak a common language. I try a second person, then a third, until a man – in a hurry, like all the others – answers the question I want to ask, the answer to which I can almost always guess:

“Who is this street named after?”

“I haven’t the least idea. Are you lost?”

I explain that I know where my hotel is and thank him. In most of the streets in my home town I would give the same answer: I do not know the person to whom the homage is paid. The glory of the world is transitory, as Paul said in one of his epistles.

I stroll through the city, which is more than ten thousand kilometers from my apartment, but whose only difference is the view of the sea. In everything else, both cities resemble one another, and I wonder what I have been doing for nearly two months away from home. I decided to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela with a 90-day trip, traveling in whatever direction the wind carried me, accepting some professional engagements because that would protect me from the temptation that at this very moment seizes me with tremendous power: to go home. Have I made the wrong decision, have I been too radical? I make my way back to the hotel, once more I will pack my bags, say goodbye again to my friends, go through all the security controls at the airport, and move on to another big city where practically the same things await me.

I go into my room, turn on the computer and visit the blog that I created for this trip. My readers send their comments, and one of them seems to have guessed what I have been feeling today, because he tells the following story:

“Once upon a time there was a poor but very brave man called Ali. He worked for Ammar, a rich old merchant. One winter’s night Ammar said: “nobody can spend a night like this on top of the mountain without a blanket or food. But you need money, and if you can manage to do that you will receive a great reward. If you don’t, you will work for thirty days without pay”. Ali answered: “tomorrow I shall do this test”. But when he left the shop, he saw that a really icy wind was blowing and became scared, so he decided to ask his best friend, Aydi, if it was crazy of him to accept that bet. After reflecting a while, Aydi answered: “I shall help you. Tomorrow, when you are at the top of the mountain, look ahead. I will be on the top of the mountain next to yours, where I will spend the whole night with a bonfire lit for you. You look at the fire and think about our friendship – that will keep you warm. You will manage, and later on I shall ask you something in return.” Ali won the test, got the money, and went to his friend’s house: “You told me you wanted some payment.” Aydi grabbed him by the shoulders: ”Yes, but it isn’t money. Promise that if at any time a cold wind passes through my life, you will light the fire of friendship for me.”

The reader ends his comment on the blog: “wherever you may be at this moment, thanks for having paid us a visit. When you decide to come back to our country, the fire of friendship will always be lit for you”.

And although the loneliness of the journey is still here in my soul, now I understand better what I am doing here.

The next text will be posted on the 15th of May.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Travelling differently

I realised very early on that, for me, travelling was the best way of learning. I still have a pilgrim soul, and I thought that I would use this blog to pass on some of the lessons I have learned, in the hope that they might prove useful to other pilgrims like me.

1. Avoid museums. This might seem to be absurd advice, but let’s just think about it a little: if you are in a foreign city, isn’t it far more interesting to go in search of the present than of the past? It’s just that people feel obliged to go to museums because they learned as children that travelling was about seeking out that kind of culture. Obviously museums are important, but they require time and objectivity – you need to know what you want to see there, otherwise you will leave with a sense of having seen a few really fundamental things, except that you can’t remember what they were.

2. Hang out in bars. Bars are the places where life in the city reveals itself, not in museums. By bars I don’t mean nightclubs, but the places where ordinary people go, have a drink, ponder the weather, and are always ready for a chat. Buy a newspaper and enjoy the ebb and flow of people. If someone strikes up a conversation, however silly, join in: you cannot judge the beauty of a particular path just by looking at the gate.

3. Be open. The best tour guide is someone who lives in the place, knows everything about it, is proud of his or her city, but does not work for an agency. Go out into the street, choose the person you want to talk to, and ask them something (Where is the cathedral? Where is the post office?). If nothing comes of it, try someone else – I guarantee that at the end of the day you will have found yourself an excellent companion.

4. Try to travel alone or – if you are married – with your spouse. It will be harder work, no one will be there taking care of you, but only in this way can you truly leave your own country behind. Travelling with a group is a way of being in a foreign country while speaking your mother tongue, doing whatever the leader of the flock tells you to do, and taking more interest in group gossip than in the place you are visiting.

5. Don’t compare. Don’t compare anything – prices, standards of hygiene, quality of life, means of transport, nothing! You are not travelling in order to prove that you have a better life than other people – your aim is to find out how other people live, what they can teach you, how they deal with reality and with the extraordinary.

6. Understand that everyone understands you. Even if you don’t speak the language, don’t be afraid: I’ve been in lots of places where I could not communicate with words at all, and I always found support, guidance, useful advice, and even girlfriends. Some people think that if they travel alone, they will set off down the street and be lost forever. Just make sure you have the hotel card in your pocket and – if the worst comes to the worst – flag down a taxi and show the card to the driver.

7. Don’t buy too much. Spend your money on things you won’t need to carry: tickets to a good play, restaurants, trips. Nowadays, with the global economy and the Internet, you can buy anything you want without having to pay excess baggage.

8. Don’t try to see the world in a month. It is far better to stay in a city for four or five days than to visit five cities in a week. A city is like a capricious woman: she takes time to be seduced and to reveal herself completely.

9. A journey is an adventure. Henry Miller used to say that it is far more important to discover a church that no one else has ever heard of than to go to Rome and feel obliged to visit the Sistine Chapel with two hundred thousand other tourists bellowing in your ear. By all means go to the Sistine Chapel, but wander the streets too, explore alleyways, experience the freedom of looking for something – quite what you don’t know – but which, if you find it, will – you can be sure – change your life.

© Translated from the Portuguese by Margaret Jull Costa

The next text will be posted on the 12th of May.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: right or left?

I arrive at Santiago de Compostela, this time by car, to celebrate my pilgrimage twenty years ago. When I was in Puente La Reina, I had the idea of holding afternoon book-signings without any elaborate preparations: just calling the next town where we were going to spend the night, ask them to put up a notice in the local bookstore, and be there at the appointed time.

It worked wonderfully in the small villages, but it did take a bit more organizing in big towns, like Santiago de Compostela itself. I enjoyed these unscheduled meetings; I found that labors of love are best performed in the spirit of improvisation.

Santiago is now in front of me, with the Atlantic Ocean a few dozen kilometers beyond. Nevertheless, I am determined to go ahead with my improvised book-signing afternoons, since my plan is to spend ninety days away from home.

And since I have no intention of crossing the ocean right now, should I take a right (Santander, the Basque Country) or a left (Guimarães, Portugal)?

Better let destiny make the choice: my wife and I enter a bar and ask a man who is drinking his coffee: right or left? He says with some conviction that we should go left – perhaps thinking we were referring to political parties.

I telephone my Portuguese editor. He does not ask me if I have gone crazy, does not complain about being informed at the last moment. Two hours later he calls me back to say that he has contacted the local radio stations in Guimarães and Fatima and that in 24 hours I can meet my readers in those cities.

Everything works out fine.

And in Fatima, like a sign, I receive a present from one of the people present at the book-signing – the writings of a Buddhist monk called Thich Nhat Hanh, with the title “The long road to joy”. From that moment on, before I continue on this 90-day journey across the world, every morning I read the wise words of Nhat Hanh, which I summarize below:

1] You have already arrived. So, feel pleasure at each step and do not worry about things that you still have to face. We have nothing before us, just a road to be traveled at each moment with joy. When we practice pilgrim meditation, we are always arriving, our home is the present moment, and nothing more.

2] For that reason, always smile while you walk, Even if you have to force it a bit and feel ridiculous. Get used to smiling and you will end up happy. Do not be afraid of displaying your contentment.

3] If you think that peace and joy always lie ahead, you will never manage to achieve them. Try to understand that they are both your traveling companions.

4] When you walk, you are massaging and honoring the earth. In the same way, the earth is trying to help you to balance your organism and mind. Understand this relationship and try to respect it – may your steps have the firmness of a lion, the elegance of a tiger and the dignity of an emperor.

5] Pay attention to what is going on around you. And concentrate on your breathing – this will help you to get rid of the problems and worries that try to accompany you on your journey.

6] When you walk, it is not just you that is moving, but all past and future generations. In the so-called “real” world, time is a measure, but in the true world nothing exists beyond the present moment. Be fully aware that everything that has happened and everything that will happen is in each step you take.

7] Enjoy yourself. Make pilgrim meditation a constant meeting with yourself, never a penance in search of reward. May flowers and fruit always grow in the places touched by your feet.

The next text will be posted on the 9th of May.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

The tempest is approaching

I know that the tempest is approaching because I see what’s happening in the distance, I see what’s happening on the horizon. Of course the light helps a little; the ebbing afternoon marks the lining of the clouds. I can also see the brightness of the bolts.

There is no sound. The wind is neither blowing stronger nor weaker than before. But I know that a tempest is approaching because I’m used to look at the horizon.

I stop walking – there’s nothing more exciting or terrifying than seeing a tempest approach. The first thought in my mind is to look for shelter – but this can be dangerous. The shelter can be some sort of trap – in a little while the wind will start to blow and he can be strong enough as to tear off roofs, break tree branches, destroy high voltage wires.

I remember an old friend, who spent his childhood in Normandy and saw the arrival of allied troops in the Nazi-occupied France. I will never forget his words:

“I woke up and the horizon was filled with battleships. On the beach next to my house, the German soldiers were contemplating the scene as well. But the thing that terrorized me the most was the silence. A total silence that precedes a life or death combat .”

It is the same silence that surrounds me now. Little by little it is replaced by the noise – very soft – of the breeze in the cornfields around me. The atmospheric pressure is changing. The tempest is getting closer, and the silence is slowly being replaced by the soft rustle of leaves.

I’ve seen many tempests in my life. The majority of them took me by surprise, so that I had to learn – and very quickly – to look further, to understand that I cannot control time, to exercise the art of patience, to respect the fury of nature. Things do not always happen the way I would like them to, so it’s better for me to get used to it.

Many years ago, I wrote a song lyric that said “I lost my fear of the rain/ ’cause the rain, coming back to earth, brings things from the air”. It is best to dominate one’s fear. I need to be worthy of what I wrote, and understand that eventually, even the worst storms will pass.

The wind is speeding up. I’m in an open field; there are trees on the horizon that, at least theoretically, will attract the bolts. My skin is impermeable even though my clothes may get drenched. Therefore it’s best to enjoy this vision rather than run for shelter.

Another half hour passes. My grandfather, who was an engineer, liked teaching me the laws of physics while we played: “after you see a lightening bolt, count the seconds until you hear the thunder, and then multiply them by 340 metres, which is the speed of sound. That’s how you will always know the distance of a storm.” It’s a bit complicated but over the years I have got used to doing it: right now the tempest is two kilometres away.

There’s still some clarity that’s how I can see the lining of the clouds that airplane pilots call CB- cumulus nimbus. The anvil shape, as if a blacksmith was hammering the sky, forging swords to enraged gods, above the city.

I see the tempest approaching. Like any tempest, it brings destruction – but at the same time it waters the fields, and the wisdom of the heavens comes down with the rain. Like any tempest, it will pass. The more violent it is, the quicker it will pass.

Thank God that I’ve learned to face tempests.

The next text will be posted on the 6th of May.

P.S: Dear reader,

During this journey, that is filling my soul with very interesting experiences, one of the most magical moments comes every night when I read the comments posted on this blog. Even though I can’t answer all of you, I want you to know that it’s very important to me to know that I’m not alone on this path. Thank you so much for your support and for the words and ideas that are now engraved on my heart.

Paulo Coelho

Twenty years later: legends of the road

Travelling along the road to Saint James of Compostela in 2006, twenty years after my first (and only) pilgrimage on foot, I remember some of the stories we hear as we walk along. Each of the following themes has many versions, but I have picked those that I feel to be most interesting.

Birth of the city

One of the many legends tells how the apostle James goes to the roman province of Hispania to spread the Gospel. When he returns to Jerusalem, he is decapitated.

Two of his disciples, Athanasius and Theodore, lay his mortal remains in a boat without a rudder and sail off into the stormy sea, guided only by the current. They end up in the same place where James had been preaching the word of Jesus. There the disciples buried his body.

Time passes until one day the shepherd called Pelayo witnesses a shower of stars pouring over a field for many days. Guided by this rain, he comes upon the ruins of three tombs – those of James and his two disciples. King Alfonso II had a chapel built on the spot – “Campus Stellae” (Field of the Star) – and the pilgrimage began. Little by little the Latin name changed until it became Compostella.

The shell symbol

On the day that the boat carrying James’ mortal remains reached Galicia, a wild storm threatened to smash it against the rocky shoreline.

A man who was passing by saw the scene and rode into the sea on his horse to try to help the sailors; but he too falls victim to the fury of the elements and begins to drown. Believing that all is lost, he begs the heavens to have mercy on his soul.

At that very moment the storms abates and both the boat and the horseman are washed gently onto a beach. There the disciples Athanasius and Theodore notice that the horse is covered in a kind of shell, also known as “scallop”.

In homage to the heroic gesture, this shell becomes the symbol of the road, and can be found in buildings all along the way, on bridges, monuments, and specially on the pilgrims backpacks.

Trying to cheat destiny

On his way to Galicia during the Reconquista (the religious wars that ended with the Spanish expelling the Arabs from the Iberian Peninsula), Emperor Charlesmagne faced a traitor’s troops near Monjardin. Before the battle, he prays to Saint James, who reveals the names of 140 soldiers who would die in the fight. Charlesmagne leaves these men behind in camp and sets off to the combat.

Late that afternoon, victorious and without a single casualty in his army, he returned to discover that the camp had been set on fire and the 140 men were dead.

The gates of glory

On reaching Saint James of Compostela, the traveler has to obey a series of rituals, including placing his or her hand on a very beautiful portico at the front door of the church. Legend has it that this work of art was commissioned by King Ferdinand II in the year 1187 to an artisan called Matthew.

For years he worked the marble, even sculpting his own figure kneeling behind the centre column.

When Matthew ended his work, the inhabitants of the city decided to pierce his eyes so that he would never be able to repeat such a marvel anywhere else in the world.

Next text will be posted on the 3rd of May 2006

Twenty years later: The Phoenix

Taking the road to Santiago twenty years ago, I stop at Villafranca Del Bierzo. One of the most emblematic figures of the walk, Jesus Jato, built a shelter for pilgrims there. People came from the village and, thinking that jato was a sorcerer, set fire to the place, but he was not intimidated, and together with his wife Maria Carmen he began all over again – the place became known as The Phoenix, the bird reborn from the ashes.

Jato is famous for preparing the “burning”, a sort of alcoholic beverage of Celtic origin that we drink in a sort of ritual, which is also Celtic. On this cold spring evening, at the Ave Fénix there is a Canadian, two Italians, three Spaniards and an Australian. And Jato tells of something that happened to me in 1986 and that I never had the courage to include in my book Diary of a Magus, certain that the readers would not believe it.

“A local priest passed by to say that a pilgrim had come through Villafranca that morning and had not reached Cebreiro (the next leg of the walk), so for sure he was lost in the forest”, said Jato. “I went out to look for him and only found him at two o’clock in the afternoon, sleeping in a cave. It was Paulo. When I woke him up, he complained: ‘Can’t I even sleep for just an hour on this road?’ I explained that he had not splet for just an hour; he had been there for more than a whole day.”

I remember as if it were yesterday: I was feeling tired and depressed, so i decided to stop for a while, came across the cave and lay down on the floor. When I opened my eyes and saw the fellow, I was sure that only a few minutes had passed, because I had not even moved an inch. Until today I do not know exactly how that happened, nor do I look for any explanations – I have learned to live with mystery.

We all drank the “burning”, accompanying Jato’s “wooh!” while he spoke the ancestral verses. At the end the Canadian girl came over to me.

- I am not the type of person who is looking for saints’ tombs, sacred rivers, and places of miracles or apparitions. For me, making a pilgrimage is celebrating. My father and my sister died young, both of heat attacks, and maybe I have a propensity for that.

“So, since I may leave this life early, I have to know as much as possible of the world and relish the happiness I deserve.”

“When my mother died, I promised myself to be happy every sunrise. To look towards the future but never sacrifice the present because of that. To always accept love whenever it crossed my path. To live each minute and never postpone anything that can make me happy.”

I remember 1986, when I too left everything aside to make this journey that was to change my life. At that time many people criticized me, feeling that it was crazy – my wife was the only one to lend me the support I needed. The Canadian girl tells me that the same happened to her, and hands me a text she carries with her:

“This is part of the speech that Theodore Roosevelt, President of the United States, gave at the Sorbonne in Paris on the 23rd of April 1910.”

I read what was on the paper:

“Critics don’t say anything: they merely point an accusing finger at the moment the strong suffer a defeat, or when they commit a mistake. True credit goes to those who are in the arena, their faces covered in dust, sweat and blood, fighting on bravely.

“True credit goes to the one who makes mistakes, who fails but little by little gets things right, because there is no effort without mistakes. He knows great enthusiasm and deep devotion, and spends his energy on something worthwhile. That is the true man, who in the best of hypothesis will know victory and conquest, and in the worst of hypotheses will fall, yet even in his fall he is great, because he has lived with courage and stands above those small-minded souls who will never know victory or defeat.

Next text will be posted on the 29th of April 2006.

Twenty years later – II

During this afternoon in Leon, in the remote year of 1986, I still don’t know that in six or seven months I will be writing a book about my experience, that Santiago the shepherd is already dwelling in my soul looking for a treasure, that a woman called Veronika is preparing herself to take some pills and commit suicide, that Pilar will arrive by the Piedra river and write, whilst crying, in her diary.


All that I know is that I’m walking this absurd and monotonous path. There is no fax or cell phone, the refuges are sparse, my guide seems irritated all the time, and I have no way of finding out what’s happening in Brazil.


All I know is that at this precise moment I’m tense, nervous, unable of talking to Petrus, because I just found out that I can’t go back to what I was doing – even if this means declining from a reasonable amount of money every month, turning away from a certain emotional stability and from a work that I already know, and in which I master a few techniques. I need to change, walk towards my dream, a dream that seems to me to be childish, ridiculous, and impossible to be accomplished: to become the writer that secretly I’ve always yearned to be but that I’m not courageous enough to become.
Petrus finishes his coffee and his mineral water and asks me to pay the bill so that we resume our walk, since there are still some kilometres to travel until the next city. People continue to pass and talk, taking glimpses towards the two middle-aged men, thinking how there are weird people in this world, always ready to relive a past that has already died (*). The temperature of this ending afternoon is about 27o C and I ask myself, for the thousandth time, if I didn’t take the wrong decision.

Did I want to change? I don’t think so but this path is transforming me. Did I want to unravel the mysteries? I think I did, but this path is teaching me that there are no mysteries, that – as Jesus Christ once said – there is nothing occult that wasn’t revealed. Basically, all that is happening to me is the opposite of what I was expecting.


We get up and start walking in silence. I’m immersed in my thoughts, in my insecurity and Petrus must be thinking – I think – about his work in Milan. He is here because in a way he was obliged by Tradition, probably wishing to finish this walk in order to go back to what he likes doing.


We walk most of the rest of the afternoon without talking. We are isolated in our obliged acquaintanceship. Saint James of Compostela is in front of us and I can’t imagine that this path will lead me to this city and to many other cities in the world. Neither Petrus nor I know that in this afternoon, on the plains of Leon, I’m also walking towards Milan, his city, where I will arrive almost ten years later, with a book called The Alchemist. I am walking towards my destiny, so many times dreamt and denied.


In a few days I will arrive exactly where, today, twenty years later, I write these lines. I am walking towards what I’ve always wanted, and I have no faith nor hope that my life will change.


But I keep going forward. Towards a remote future, passing in a few days by one of the bars where now my wife is sitting reading a book, and me, typing this text in a computer, that in a couple of minutes will send it through internet to a newspaper where it will be published.


I am walking towards the future – in this August afternoon of 1986.


(*) In the year that I did my pilgrimage, only 400 people had walked Saint James’ Path. In 2005, according to non-official statistics, 400 people where crossing – per day – the bar mentioned in the text.

The next text will be posted on the 26.04.06

Twenty years later

Sitting in a Leon garden, staring at the river that flows, today’s date: 27th of March.

Next to me, my wife Christina is reading a book. Spring has started in Europe and we can now put our sweaters inside the trunk. We have been driving for many days, going through places that marked our lives (Christina has walked the Saint James’ Path in 1990). Even though we have been travelling unhurriedly, we managed to cover 500 kilometres in only a week.

Mineral water. Coffee.

People talking, people walking.

People that also drink their coffee and their mineral water.

That’s how I go 20 years back, to an afternoon of July or August 1986. Coffee, mineral water, people talking and walking – but this time the scenery is composed of plains that stretch along Castrojeriz, my birthday is approaching, I have already gone from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port a long time ago, and I’m at the middle of the way that will lead me to Saint James of Compostella.

My walking speed: 20 kilometres per day.

I look ahead towards the monotonous landscape, the guide is also drinking his coffee by a bar that seems to have appeared from nowhere. I look back towards that same monotonous landscape but the only difference is that this time the dust of the floor has my shoes sole marks printed on it. This is temporary though: the wind will erase them before night fall.

Everything looks unreal.

What am I doing here? This question keeps on following me, even though many weeks have passed.

I’m searching for a sword. I’m accomplishing a ritual that I learned from RAM, a small catholic order, that has no secrets or mysteries besides trying to understand the symbolic language of the world. I’m starting to think that I’ve been cheated, that the spiritual quest makes no sense and has no logic, and that maybe the best thing to do would be to go back to Brazil and do what I’ve always been doing.

I doubt of my sincerity in this quest because it gives too much work to look for a God that never reveals himself, of praying at the right time, of walking strange paths, of being disciplined, of accepting orders that seems to me to be absurd.

That’s it: I doubt of my sincerity. For all these days Petrus has been saying that the path is for all, for common people, an idea that truly disappoints me. I thought that all the work I had would grant me a unique place among the happy few that got near to the Universe’s archetypes. I thought that I would finally discover that all the tales regarding the secret government of wise men in Tibet, of magic potions capable of arousing love where before not even attraction existed, of rituals where suddenly the gates of Heaven would open themselves, were true.

But it’s precisely the opposite that Petrus has been telling me: there are no “chosen ones”. All are chosen if instead of asking themselves “what am I doing here?” they choose to do something that would arouse the enthusiasm in their hearts. The gates of Heaven are to be found in doing a work with enthusiasm. That’s how love is transformed and guides us closer to God.

This is the enthusiasm that connects us with the Holy Spirit and not the hundreds, thousands of classical texts. It’s the belief that life is a miracle that enables miracles to happen, not the “secret rituals” or the “initiatic orders”. In a nutshell, it is Man’s decision to follow his destiny that turns him into a Man, not the theories that he develops around the mystery of life.

And here I am. At the middle of the way that leads me to Saint James of Compostella. If things are as simple as he says, why this pointless adventure?

(Next text will be posted on the 22.04.2006)